The "Greenlandic Way"

We make plans, but Sila decides. By 2 pm our boat was finally fixed and the big fog has dissipated. We left Upernavik hopeful to reach Kullorsuaq – the Devil’s Thumb - by the end of the day. Instead we ended up in a thick fog yet again and in two settlements that initially were not on our road map. Our plan has been changed again, but we do not regret about this weather related detour.

The fog has arrived, but not before Sila gave us all the pleasures of the summer time on sea. Our boat glided on the smooth surface of the bay, by skyscraper-sized icebergs of different shapes, colors and textures.

Alberth was maneuvering between them better than a cabdriver in Manhattan.

These humangous structures – just like New York skyscrapers – block the sun, so it’s cold in the shade.


They seem to be lifeless, but in reality they are homes to billions of tiny and not so tiny creatures, from iron bacteria to snow algae.

The sun was bright but the fog was already on its way

It was approaching fast and the sea was getting stormier

Soon everything again disappeared in the white mist


We have a modern gps on our boat but whom to believe in the moments of confusion?


Alberth is sure that his inner instincts overrule the ones of the GPS


And we follow his instincts


And of course, he happens to be right – as always


The road brings us to Tasiusaq – a little settlement of ….in Upernavik district


And it is sunny here again


But as soon as we leave … we get back into the fog


It is midnight and Kullorsuaq is still out of reach


We decide to land at Nuussuaq. Hungry and wet, we sit down on the sled – the first steady surface after 10 hours on the rocky waves


Where to go and what do to? There is not a single person on the shore. And then out of nowhere appears a man. We don’t know him, but upon seeing our misery he invited us to his house. Now we have shelter, food and a hot tea which we desperately need.


This man happens to be Nikolai Kristensen. He is a local artist who lives with his young grandson in a house that has so many treasures that one could spend days observing them and still not see them all.


Thousands of little bids come together as lamp shades, purses, shoes, earings, carpets, kitchen utensils and dresses.


He says he never knows what a new dress will look like. He does not make plans. He does not draw the outline. He just puts things together – the Greenlandic way – and sees what happens in the end.


His house is full of beads. They are everywhere – on the table, on the window shelves and on the floor. In the dim light they look like dust. But then out of this very “dust”, of simple “northingness” all these marvels are being born – how? He tells us that they are born from love.


In the morning we see hi’s collection in full light.


What does he do with his masterpieces? Does he sell them? Does he show them to anyone? It turns out that he makes them for his grandchildren and all these … are actually a wearable pieces of art.


All the colors of the Greenland summer are in it.


The local garbage woman stops by to take a look.


She too will look fantastic in one of these dresses. Maybe he will do one for her?

After breakfast we say goodbye to Nuussuaq and our new friends here to continue our trip to the North.


There are many unknowns ahead, but the uncertainty does not scare us. We know that we will make it – one way of the other. We will make it the Greenlandic Way.